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Downward Bound, A Mad! Guide to Rock Climbing, by Warren R. Harding, is a book from the 1970s by one of the pioneers of “big wall” rock climbing in Yosemite National Park. Hardings credentials as a climber are significant. He was lead on the team that first ascended El Capitan in 1958. He and a colleague were the first persons to climb the first true “big wall” when he climbed the Wall of the Early Morning Light of El Capitan in 1970. This was a climb that publicized climbing to a general audience, as the team was pummeled by storms and had to ward off efforts by the National Park Service to rescue them. There was also a historical controversy surrounding Hardings use of “bolts” and the riff with his archrival, Royal Robbins, who duplicated the feat while trying to remove all of Hardings climbing aids. In all, Harding had over 28 “firsts” in Yosemite climbing. Harding was a controversial climber and one of the self proclaimed “bad boys” of climbing. There is a conflict between those who get up the mountain anyway they can safely and those who expouse that there should be “rules” about how you climb. These are the so called climbing ethicists who award “style points” for how things are done. They frequently zeroed out Harding, as they viewed him as the anti-Christ. He viewed (some of) them as nattering armchair climbers. He views some of them as damn fine climbers. He also allows that a number of them—even as they criticized him for trying to profit from his fame (notoriety) as a climber—were much more successful at “cashing in” than he ever was. This is the first book Ive ever read about big wall climbing, and I was intriqued by the challenges of the sport and the technical skills required to spend multiple weeks on a quest to get up one of the “big walls” of Yosemite. Harding is a much better climber than writer, a fact that he would not dispute. His efforts to cash in on his climbing notoriety were not particularly successful and the details all of this in a disorganized splash of a book that reminds me of too many 1970s efforts by writers without the talent to emulate the Gonzo Journalism style of Hunter S. Thompson. I give it a 3, primarily because of its technical insight and because I found it amusing. I do admit that I would read a couple more books on the technical aspects of climbing (perhaps one by Royal Robbins) before ever leaving my weight suspended by a piton that I hammered into a mountain crack.

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